Most of my time was spent troubleshooting and repairing the PCB’s in the system. My ‘best buy’ was a Hako FR-301 de-soldering tool, set to 3.4 temperature setting and using the N61-10 1.6mm standard tip.
The PCB’s are single layer technology and more than 50 years old. They require a quality temperature controlled de-soldering tool to avoid damaging or lifting the tracks. When it came to soldering, I used a standard Antex X25, 25 watt soldering Iron.
Repairing the core memory required the use of a Stereo Microscope, and two pairs of tweezers with sharpened tips to reduce their physical form factor. More about core memory repair later.
For most of the time I had no requirement for PCB extender boards, however they did prove useful for adjusting pots on the serial interface timing card. I purchased new ones from Douglas Electronics in California.
Of course a good dual trace Oscilloscope is required. My Chinese Hantek worked well, once I upgraded the firmware to the latest revision. I also used a current probe for setting up R/W and Inhibit currents.
Current Probe – with thanks to Mark Atherton: